Traveling is fun only on Instagram. Thank God, I only have to pack and unpack my carry-on one more time this summer. It was easier in ancient times, when you had someone who schlepped around your luggage. Luckily I travel pretty light, but my backpack with all my gear is so heavy—I’m getting too old for that. Other than that, I can’t complain.
Actually, I can and I will.
I’m starting to think that the East Coast winter is going to be more friendly than East Coast summer. I remember New York’s hot and muggy summer, but New Hampshire too? Seriously? I was born in the desert, I’m immune to the heat, but humidity and ticks and deer flies? That’s too much. Deer flies aren’t as disgusting-looking as common houseflies, yet they are more obnoxious and vicious. They don’t bite; it just saws your skin with its saw-like mouth and licks your blood. Yikes!
Once you get past the stickiness and vampiric creatures, New Hampshire is stunning. I HIGHLY recommend visiting. The landscape is so breathtaking that I didn’t mind all the driving. The endless mirror-still lakes reflect the countless pine trees so perfectly that you can’t tell where the water ends and where the sky begins.
Our generous friends did most of the cooking; I only prepared a couple of salad recipes from my cookbook, and I cooked one meal during our weekend stay at their stunning lake house.
The produce was fresh and delicious. We dined out a couple of times, and when we did, the food was better than I expected. That bread pudding at Pearl Restaurant and Oyster Bar in Peterborough was unforgettable. The divine blueberry scone at Fiddlehead’s Café in Hancock village was equally memorable—I swear to God, the best scone I’ve ever had.
The nicest revelation was brunch at The Main Street Station, an old-train-car diner in a small town called Plymouth (It’s pronounced ‘PLIM-uth’—I thought it was ‘Ply-Mouth'”). And yes, I, Shelly Healthy Gilad, ate in a diner! I had no intention of doing so, I was just keeping Keanu company. UNTIL the waitress mentioned that they make EVERYTHING in-house, including the corned beef, the rye bread—New Hampshire style: white loaf with a rye spiral in the center—and the biscuits that we were smelling from down the road. EVERYTHING we had in that charming little diner was too good for our own good.
You want to know what else was great about NH? It was quiet! Silent! Peaceful! At least where we stayed. No sirens, no planes, and no helicopter noises. Not even coyotes howling. The bears are silent like Tibetan monks—I only saw teenage black bear scavenging for food in a dumpster at a gas station.
The only mistake we made was our itinerary: New Hampshire first, then New York. It makes way more sense to go to Zoo York first and then to Natureland. I would have been way less whiny if I were writing this post from New Hampshire instead of here. I’m in New York now.
New York City Was New York City
Crowded, noisy, hectic, hedonistic, but as usual seductive and delicious. I lived all over Manhattan, so every street and corner reminds me of something or somebody. It’s more kid- and bike-friendly now than it used to be.
But the best change that happened lately is that now you just tap your credit card for public transportation. No need anymore for a MetroCard or coins for the subway and bus—That S*&^ used to drive me nuts. The only complaint I have is that the city bike rental fees went up so high. It used to be significantly cheaper. Now, if you’re a tourist, it’s $25 for a day!
The food at Cafe Mogador on St. Marks (which used to be our second home) is still as good or even better.
With all the food choices this city has to offer, I couldn’t bring myself to cook anything but breakfast. I have a rule: I don’t spend 20 bucks on avocado toast or poached eggs, or anything I can make myself in five minutes.
If it was up to me and Keanu, we would eat Chinese/Taiwanese every day. We discovered two extraordinary Chinese restaurants: Lin and Daughters in the West Village and Ho Foods in the East Village. Both restaurants serve classic Taiwanese dishes such as scallion pancakes, cucumber salad with chili oil, and Dan Dan noodles, but the flavors are totally different.
Keanu and I are remarkably in sync when it comes to food cravings. No wonder we love to work and travel together. We disagree about everything, but never about what and where to eat.
Okay, so where should you eat in the Big Apple
Cafe Mogador – You can’t be in NYC and not eat their delicious Moroccan food. I always order their vegetable couscous; it tastes like home, and Keanu orders his favorite: chicken bastilla.
Lin and Daughters – Eating there was like eating my mother’s delicate Moroccan food, but with Chinese seasoning. When we left, I wanted to give Mama Lin and her daughters a big hug.
Ho Foods – Ho-ly Food! Everything is so delicate, so fresh, so delicious! Order the classics, but don’t miss their cabbage salad with tofu and that amazing ginger-carrot dressing.
Chef Huang – Another excellent Chinese restaurant that we loved. Get the Peking duck and sautéed pea shoots with garlic.
Balthazar – A classic NYC institution, and for good reason. The food is solid, but the atmosphere is what really makes it special.
Thirteen Water – I’ve never been to Japan, but I live in LA, where there are excellent omakase sushi restaurants. The quality of the fish with a graceful touch of seasoning they serve in that tiny sushi bar is mind-blowing. Reservation needed.
Laboratorio del Gelato – I don’t love ice cream or waiting in long lines, yet there I was, waiting in that long line so my friends who had never been could taste the brilliant flavors—gently sweetened, perfectly creamy gelato. The line gets crazy after 6 pm, so come before then.
Nish Nush – It was pouring when we arrived in Manhattan, so I googled “restaurants near me” and discovered this gem. When we got there, I was a bit skeptical—even though the place had good reviews, it was too late and too wet to look for another place. Good thing we stayed! When the hummus arrived, Keanu and I took a bite, looked at each other, and said at the same time, “Holy shit! It’s SO good!”
PIZZA
I’m not a pizza expert—Keanu is. I judge pizzas by their crust. If I smell the yeast in the dough, I ain’t coming back.
Joe’s Pizza – I didn’t have any this time; however, after all the slices they had, my family and friends claim it’s still the best.
Prince Street Pizza – That’s their number two.
Johnny’s Pizza – This one’s new, and in my opinion, it’s better than Joe’s and Prince Street.
Ceres Pizza – My number one is Ceres. You can’t buy a slice, and you have to order and pay for it two hours in advance and pick it up yourself. I thought it would be gimmicky and weak, but the pizza was fantastic. Get the cheeseless pizza with a drizzle of olive oil, it’s even better than the cheesy one.
Good Coffee and an Opportunity to Rest Your Legs
La Cabra – Keanu loved everything in this coffee shop. I would too if they had decaf coffee and a dairy-free pastry.
Moshava – If you need a place to work and have delicious coffee, this is the place.
La Colombe – Decaf coffee isn’t very popular in NYC, so while Keanu had his coffee at La Cabra, I had mine at La Colombe next door. Their decaf almond latte was delicious!
The best travel moments are the ones you can’t photograph—like waking up stress-free for the first time in months, or the shock of discovering perfect hummus when you least expect it. New York brings the world to your doorstep, but sometimes you need New Hampshire’s quiet to remember why you wanted to see the world in the first place.
Next time I’m doing this backward. Chaos first, then peace.
